Surfing learning curve

Learning to surf can be one of the most fun, exciting and spiritual experiences of your life…it can also be the most painful, frustrating and annoying. Hopefully you are smart like me (haha) and take your first lesson with Hawaiian Surf Adventure. Leaning the basics right away is essential. I’ve been surfing for 8 years and will still ask for advice from surf instructors; little tips here and there add up! I consider myself very spoiled in the realm of learning to surf. I happened to be dating the owner of H.S.A when I was learning, so I would hop on the boat and surf empty waves whenever I pleased. It was great for learning and embarrassing myself in front of a small crowd, but when it came time to surf in more realistic conditions (meaning CROWDED lineups) I would freeze up and get super intimidated, make stupid mistakes and often paddle to shore feeling defeated. Luckily I’m a determined one, so I kept paddling out…eventually after so many sessions, you enjoy the many experiences surfing brings you: endless rainbows, your first board rash, having a turtle pop up next to you and screaming cause you think it’s a shark, dawn patrol, a friendly smile from another surfer you’ve seen before, someone you don’t know giving you props on a great wave, getting dropped in on for the first time, dropping in on someone else, surfing in the rain, surfing in the dark, your first run-in with wava (sea urchin – ouch), countless reef cuts and learning to take pride in your hard-earned reef scars, understanding what it really feels like to be “stoked”, seeing someone else catch a great wave…I started to realize that it wasn’t all about ME surfing – it was about watching others, learning patience and just enjoying being in the ocean. What it comes down to is this: you can learn the basics of surfing in one lesson and have an awesome experience, but the learning curve of feeling really confident surfing actually takes a good while. While you’re learning, just remember there are good days and bad – continue to have fun, stay humble and respect others. Aloha!